Love a Duck

“Singing songs like ‘The Man I Love’ or ‘Porgy’ is no more work than sitting down and eating Chinese roast duck, and I love roast duck.” Billie Holiday

The main dining room 1 Photo M. Plunger kopiera (4)

Operakällaren, photograph courtesy of the restaurant

A horrible ragged breathing emanated from inside the chimney. Followed by scratching. Something was stuck and it was alive. “It sounds like an old man,” I thought. My husband and I were renting a mill house near Andrews Lake in Delaware. Built in 1749, the house was the local subject of ghost stories which I had always ignored (until that moment). Peering up the chimney, the racket grew louder but we could see nothing. We shouted. Banged on some pots and pans. Nothing. Finally, we lit a piece of newspaper and suddenly, with a thud, a duck fell into the fireplace and on fire, flapped his way around the living room. We managed to steer him outside where the poor thing promptly expired. That day, I took the duck to the grocery in the nearby town of Frederica. “What kind of duck is this? I wanted to know. “Can I eat it?” It was a wild Muscovy duck and “No, you can’t eat this. Are you kidding? Where did you find this thing?” asked the butcher, adding, “But I’ll sell you a nice fat duck.” That dead duck was a kind of personal phoenix: a beginning of my curiosity about and love of duck and goose. Lucky for me, in the 1970s, it was very easy to buy duck and to find recipes.  In Volume I of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, first published in 1961, Julia Child had recipes for braising, roasting, and baking whole ducks. She had preparations as varied as duck with cherries, also turnips, orange sauce, chestnuts, and sauerkraut. Leftovers? You could try her mousse or paté in a pastry crust. The list of goose recipes is nearly as impressive.

A big fat duck

A nice fat duck

Today, sit yourself down at a restaurant in France, and you will likely see magret de canard on the menu. This large duck breast, cooked like a steak with a rosy interior, is now a staple in most European cities and very popular in the US as well. But at the time of my Burning Duck, I had never heard of it. Equally popular? Confit de canard which has been around since antiquity as a method of preserving ducks and geese. The birds, in pieces, are entirely covered with their rendered fat, slowly cooked, then packed into jars or crocks where they last several months. A year was not uncommon in the old days. Today, confit, a regional specialty of Gascony, is found in supermarkets all over France canned, vacuum-packaged, or frozen. In the States, it’s more of a luxury item but available in many gourmet shops. Duck magret is very easy to cook but commercial confit is even simpler: you just heat it up. What rarely appears on dinner tables and in restaurants is roasted whole duck or duckling. It’s sold in supermarkets but there is not much demand. So let’s see. Plenty of magret and confit and what else?

Foie gras. A delicate subject.

When did the cooking of whole ducks and ducklings take a back seat to their hefty relatives? In the 1960s and early 1970s. Why? Increased production of and demand for foie gras. The ducks and geese with enlarged livers also had large breasts, which we call magret de canard. Andre Daguin, distinguished chef of the Hotel de France in Auch in the Gers region of Gascony, was said to have ‘invented’ magret de canard. The word magret is a combination of lo magret, a Gascon word, and le ‘maigret’, a French word which loosely means a lean piece of meat. Recipes calling for the ‘filet’ of duck have always been around but Daguin’s magret was larger and thicker than ordinary duck breast due to the fattening or engraissement of the ducks for their livers. Chef Daguin had been serving his duck breast since 1959 but his recipe for magret, cooked as a steak with a green peppercorn sauce took off in the mid-1960s. Gavage or the forced feeding of ducks and geese is either miraculous or torture depending on your point of view. From a historical perspective, it is one of the most ancient practices and even depicted in frescoes from Egyptian tombs at Saqqara. Today, the consumption of foie gras has never been greater. Indeed, a vendor at La Valette Foie Gras, a chain of boutiques in France, described foie gras as somewhat banalisé or commonplace rather than the luxurious treat it once was. As to the ethics of foie gras, there has been much written pro and con on the subject and the state of California has banned its production. [Note: the law was overturned in 2015 but appeals are pending.]  I tend toward the opinion of William Bernet, owner of the Restaurant Severo (who serves beef not foie gras)

On devrait dépenser son énergie sur les problèmes de la faim dans le monde plutôt que sur la polémique autour du foie gras. 

(It would be better to expend energy on world hunger rather than the polemics surrounding foie gras.)

My young molecular biologist friend Kim steered me to a 93-page report specifying the European guidelines for production entitled: Welfare Aspects of the Production of Foie Gras in Ducks and Geese*. She points out that the report is old but appears to still be in use.

Drake by Robin Paine

Drake by Robin Paine

Anatomy Lesson

Kim explained a few more things about ducks and foie gras. Ducks don’t chew because they have no teeth: they open their throats and down it goes. No gagging. The way that ducks and many birds ingest, digest, and even breathe is unlike humans. Ducks breathe through their tongues, I learned from J. Kenji López-Alt in his excellent discussion in a posting in Serious Eats. ** Migratory birds eat before flight, which is to say, enormously. Gorging themselves is essential behavior. Crossing a migratory duck with a domestic duck produces a hybrid best suited for foie gras production. J. Kenji López-Alt describes the hybridization of the ducks: When you cross a male Muscovy with a female Pekin, you get a Moulard, a hybrid that combines the more desirable behavioral features of the two species. First off, it’s larger and more robust than either a Muscovy or Pekin, much in the way that a mule is bigger and stronger than either the horse or donkey it was bred from (Moulards are also sterile, like mules, and are often referred to as “mule ducks”). Like Pekins, they don’t fly and are relatively gregarious, making group living and containment quite simple for farmers, and non-stressful and safe for the ducks. Their most important feature, however—and this is important—is that like Muscovies, they don’t have the urge to migrate, but like Pekins, they retain all of the interior anatomy necessary for the gorging that migration requires.”  

The Triumph of Magret

In effect, magret, the fortunate offshoot of foie gras production, has cooled off the desire to cook whole ducks and geese. I would say that’s a pity until I heard a convincing case from Hank Shaw, author of Duck Duck Goose (Ten Speed Press, October 2013). P1020778 “In many ways the emergence of magret is a good thing: It is very difficult to properly roast a whole duck *if* you want the breast meat cooked medium or medium-rare and the legs and wings fully cooked. I honestly think people get too hung up on roasting whole ducks or geese. Yes, you can do it, but to do it right you will invariably overcook the breast meat, which will then take on a livery, almost chalky flavor and texture. If you do this, you’d better have a damn good gravy to drown it in. When I am presented with birds cooked this way, I reach for the leg — it will be the best part of the duck or goose, by far.” But hold on, Hank! Billy Holiday had it right: there’s nothing like a Chinese roast duck, known commonly as Peking duck. The combination of the mandarin pancake, Hoisin sauce, duck, and crispy duck skin must be tried to be believed. This is a dish that is best made at home and served at once. A purchased Peking duck is like buying rotisserie chicken: it can be good but it can also be cold, overcooked, and worst of all, not crispy. It is true that the breast meat on a whole duck will not be rare when you roast it. However, there are compensations. The ‘damn good gravy’, for example. Also, the price which is often not much more than for a chicken and much less that magret or confit. One way to get around the breast issue is to treat it like a coq au vin or other braised dish. My friend Carlo Albasio served us a splendid duck with cabbage dish that he called La Cassoeula, something like French cassoulet. The duck and cabbage cooked quite a long time and he served it with polenta.

 

The Whole Experience

A duck to remember? Every morsel perfect? Go to Stockholm in October. Make a reservation at the glorious Operakällaren restaurant and order the duck menu.*** You will dine on a whole duck in select sections: the foie, the magret, the leg confit, and the sauce of pressed duck. The chef, Stefano Catenacci, so our waiter told us, unearthed a duck press that is identical to those used at the famed Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris. Stored for decades, he resurrected it and now, comes to your table with this marvelous contraption, presses what’s left of the duck into a saucepan, and creates a sauce that I, for one, have never before experienced. Advance warning: this is an expensive evening, even for Sweden.

What About Goose?

In Germany, Saint Martin’s day (November 11th) is the kick-off for goose consumption. This is the time of year that the geese are fattened and readied for holidays but more mythically, it commemorates  St. Martin, a Roman soldier who converted to Christianity. He was such a good and kind man, the church decided to make him a bishop. He didn’t want that! So, he hid in a barnyard where a gaggle of geese gave him away with their cackling. There are many versions of this story, none of which are particularly satisfying. The more practical explanation is that Martinmas is simply an agricultural marker for the end of harvest. In Berlin, the restaurant Leibniz-Klause is known and appreciated for its traditional German cuisine. Starting in November around St. Martin’s day, a goose dinner is served. It must be ordered in advance for no less than 4 people and for a feast of this size is very reasonably priced. The goose is carved at the table and accompanied by potato dumplings, kale, red cabbage and bread with goose fat. And dessert (a plum knodel with vanilla poppy sauce.) You won’t leave hungry. The best geese I’ve found are domestic, quite fat, and come from farms in the mid-west. It is no more difficult to cook a goose than it is a turkey and it makes for a very festive holiday meal or simply a terrific winter feast. Be sure to save the fat! Cooking potatoes in duck or goose fat is a treat.

*****************************************************************

In closing, I’d like to say farewell to Susan Derecsky, who included me in the adventure of Michel Richard’s book and recipe testing which I’ve described below in the Duck with Orange Sauce recipe.  She died this fall after a lengthy illness. She was a dear friend, a great cook, a treasure trove of all things culinary, and a terrific editor.  Above all, I remember her generosity.

Susan Derecsky

It was such a privilege to know her.

And now some RECIPES for magret, foie gras, hachis parmentier, whole duck with figs, duck breast with orange sauce, confit, Peking duck and roast goose.

SIMPLE MAGRET DE CANARD (DUCK BREAST)

Serves 2

  • 1 magret de canard
  • Salt and Pepper

With a sharp knife, score the fat of the magret.

P1020772

Score!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put the magret fat side down in a dry frying pan and cook it slowly for 10 minutes. The fat will melt and accumulate in the pan. Drain off the fat and cook the other side of the duck for 5 minutes if you like it rare or 8 minutes, for medium. Be aware that these times are relative: if the magret is very thick, it will take longer.

Season the duck with salt and pepper and let it sit for 5 minutes covered with foil. P1020779

Slice thinly and serve.

JEANETTE’S SISTER-IN-LAW’S FOIE GRAS

My friend Jeanette passed this recipe along to me with this comment:

“Personally, I don’t care for the strong flavor that Cognac or Armagnac gives to the liver. I prefer a sweet wine like the Muscat or just a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Softening it in water is a good step. Then, you gently pry apart the two lobes and with the point of a small paring knife, remove the nerves which are very tiny little red veins. Do this step until you are satisfied but it won’t affect the flavor of the foie gras at all if some are left.”

If you have never cooked duck liver, imagine what it’s like to cook a pound of butter without it melting. Essentially that is what foie gras is: all fat. It needs to be cooked very carefully. Ingredients:

  • 1 duck liver of about 500 grams (1 lb)
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • Pepper
  • Nutmeg
  • 3 tablespoons Muscat (or 1 of Port or 1 of sherry + 2 of Armagnac)

Soak the liver for an hour in warm water (98.6 F or 37°C) to soften. Remove from the water and de-vein carefully. In a zip lock bag, season liver with salt, pepper, and Muscat. At this point you can add fig jam if you would like to flavor it with fig. Let liver marinate refrigerated for 24 hours turning it twice. The next day, press the liver to fit firmly in a terrine or Pyrex loaf pan.Heat the oven to 70°C (158 F) Place the terrine in a larger pan with warm (not hot) water and then in the oven and cook without covering for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Keeps for 15 days in the fridge.

Note: Francoise Meunier, a cooking teacher in Paris, taught me a useful trick with foie gras to determine cooking time. When you think it’s nearly done, plunge your finger through the center. It should go through easily with no resistance. Remember if you overcook foie gras, it will melt completely!

HACHIS PARMENTIER AU CANARD

This is a soothing wintery dish that is like Shepherd’s Pie. Usually it’s made with ground beef or leftover roast. With duck, it’s a little grander and makes a wonderful buffet dish for a party.  Serves 4

  • 2 duck legs*
  • 1 bouquet garni (bay leaf, thyme, parsley tied with a string)
  • 1 carrot, peeled and cut into rounds
  • 1 onion, peeled but left whole
  • 2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled
  • 1 egg
  • 2 tablespoons heavy cream or milk
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • ½- ¾ cup grated Swiss or Gruyère cheese
  • Pinch of nutmeg
  • Salt and pepper

Place the duck legs, bouquet garni, carrot, and onion in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 30 minutes. Once cooked, discard the bouquet garni and the onion but reserve the broth and the carrots. Remove the skin from duck legs and discard. Shred or cut the meat into small pieces. Boil the potatoes under soft and drain. Mash them, adding a ladle of the broth. Mix well and add the egg and cream. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. In a baking dish, spread a layer of potatoes (half of the mixture), the carrots, and finally the duck. Add a bit of bouillon (about 2 tablespoons) and then, the rest of the potatoes. Season with pepper and dot with the butter and the grated cheese. Bake at 350 F for about 30 minutes or until the dish is bubbling and lightly browned. *for a much speedier preparation, you may use 2 duck legs that are confit. As they are already cooked, you can eliminate the first step. Use a little chicken broth to moisten the potatoes and forget about the carrots. Be very sparing with salt, as the confit tends to be quite salty.

Note: you can expand this recipe to serve 30 guests. Follow the same method, but use these quantities and bake in a large roasting pan or gratin dish:

  • 15 duck legs (I would strongly suggest using confit for such a quantity)
  • 8 pounds potatoes
  • 4 eggs
  • 1/2 cups milk
  • 4 ounces butter
  • 1 – 1 1/2 cups cheese

DUCK WITH FIGS 

I got this recipe from food historian, Segolene Lefebvre, whose blog, Boire et Manger: Quelle Histoire! I admire. I changed it a bit (and put it in English.) She serves it with a fantastic potato puree made with olives and olive oil. For 4 people:

  • 1 duck
  • 8 ounces dried figs or 1 pound fresh figs (about 10 figs)
  • 1 thick slice ham, diced
  • 1 stalk celery, sliced
  • 1 carrot, sliced
  • 1 good-sized onion, sliced
  • 1 head garlic, separated into cloves but unpeeled
  • 1 bouquet garni (bay leaf, thyme, parsley tied with a string)
  • 1 cup rancio sec or Banyuls (Substitute with Port or Madeira if desired)
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper

Soak the figs several hours in the wine. Cut the duck in two (with poultry shears, it’s fairly easy) Brown the duck in a large pot in olive oil. Add the vegetables, garlic, ham, and the bouquet garni. Add the figs and the wine, salt and pepper, cover and let simmer 45 minutes. (In fact, the longer it cooks, the better it is) Serve with these:

Mashed Potatoes

  • 2 pounds potatoes, peeled
  • 2 ounces black olives, pitted
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 or 3 sprigs thyme
  • ½ clove garlic
  • Salt and pepper

In a large pot, cook the potatoes covered in water with the thyme and bay leaves. When they are cooked, about 20 to 25 minutes, drain them and remove the thyme and bay leaves. Put in a large bowl and smash with a fork. Chop up the garlic and olives and mix them with the olive oil. Incorporate this mixture with the potatoes. Check seasoning. Cut the duck into serving pieces and pour the figs, juices, and vegetables over the top.

MICHAEL RICHARD’S CANARD A L’ORANGE (DUCK WITH ORANGE SAUCE)

In January of 2000, Susan Derecsky, good friend and cookbook editor extraordinaire, asked if I’d like to test recipes in my home for a book that she was working on with Michel Richard, the celebrated chef of Citronelle in Washington, DC. Would I? I was bowled over with delight. As it turned out, that book project did not result in a publication but some years later, Michel wrote, Happy in the Kitchen, (Artisan, 2006) a delightful book which reflects his generous nature and immense talent. The recipes that I tested were fun and unusual. Two involved duck. Here’s what he had to say: “In my restaurant, we don’t waste anything. When we have ducks, we butcher them ourselves. We separate the legs from the carcass, remove the back and all the loose fat, and keep the breasts, legs, backs, and fat separate. We sauté the breasts on the bone so they don’t shrink-then bake them at a low temperature until rare. We make confit from the legs, throw the backs into the stockpot, and render the fat. We use Muscovy duck, which has a thick breast and not too much fat, instead of the more commonly available Long Island or Pekin duckling. For the sauce, I add kumquats to give it a strong orange flavor, but you can omit them if they are hard to find or out of season.” This recipe has a ‘restaurant feel’ to it since it only serves two. I think you could easily double or triple it with good results. Serves 2

  • 1 female duck, legs, back, and loose fat removed*
  • ¼ teaspoon ground anise
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Olive oil, for sautéing

Rub the duck breasts with the anise, cinnamon, and salt and pepper to taste. Let stand for 2 hours. Make the orange sauce during this time. Preheat the oven to 275ºF. Heat the olive oil until very hot and sauté the duck, skin side down with a weight on top until it loses all the fat. Transfer to the oven and roast until the blood coagulates, 20 to 25 minutes. * My note: you may wish to use a large magret of duck or 2 small ones (about 1 ½ pounds) instead of the bone-on duck breast but check the cooking after 10 minutes. The boneless breasts will cook faster. Remove the breasts from the bone and slice them. Fan out on a hot plate, cover with sauce, garnish with the carrots [see instruction below], and serve.

Orange Sauce

  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 6 kumquats, thinly sliced (optional)
  • ½ cup orange juice
  • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • 2 tablespoons [1 oz] grated ginger
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
  • 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier Kosher
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the sugar, the kumquats, and a few drops of orange juice in a small pan. Let caramelize until starting to brown. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar, the remaining orange juice, and the stock. Reduce by two thirds. Add the ginger. Set aside. Cook the onion in the butter over low heat until soft. Add the orange stock and thicken with the dissolved cornstarch. Add the Grand Marnier and cook to evaporate the alcohol, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish 8 baby carrots, peeled, trimmed, and greens cut to ¾ inch and wrapped in aluminum foil. Steam the carrots until tender-crunchy. Remove the foil.

MICHAEL RICHARD’S CONFIT DE CANARD

If the duck with orange sauce seems a little daunting, try this one: it’s not difficult and has terrific flavor. The challenge is finding the duck fat. It is carried in some supermarkets and shops in the US and you can order it from D’Artagnan in New York (http://www.dartagnan.com/) which also sells foie gras, duck and other gourmet items. Interestingly, D’Artagno was started over 25 years ago by Ariane Daguin, whose father, Andre Daguin, is credited with much of the popularity of magret of duck.

  • 6 large Moulard duck legs
  • 2 tablespoons black pepper
  • 1/2 head garlic, cloves peeled and halved
  • 1 bunch fresh thyme
  • 1 orange peel
  • 3 tablespoons sea salt
  • 2 1/2 pounds duck fat

1. Combine duck, pepper, garlic, thyme, peel, and salt in a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. 2. Remove duck from salt, rinse and dry. 3. Place legs in a single layer in a roasting pan or large frying pan. 4. Add duck fat or lard and simmer medium-low heat, turning from time to time. Until duck is tender – about 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 hours. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. 5. Place duck in an earthenware crock (or big bowl), strain the fat over top to cover. Let cool completely. Refrigerate for at least 4 days and up to 2 months.

PEKING DUCK 

The truth: this dish takes time. But it is worth it and that is also the truth. Finding a spot to suspend the duck might take a little imagination. I once suspended it from a pipe in the basement. Another time from a floor lamp. Tying the string to the handle of an open cupboard door also works. Put a bowl or bucket underneath to catch any drips. If you have a cat, hang your duck high enough that the cat can’t get at it or isolate it (cat or duck). Serves 4-6 (Usually served with other dishes. Each guest should have 2 or 3 pancakes)

  • Mandarin Pancakes (see recipe below)
  • Scallion Brushes
  • 5 pound duck
  • 6 cups water
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 4 slices ginger
  • 2 scallions cut in 2” lengths
  • Sauce
  • 1/4 cup Hoisin sauce
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 1 teaspoon sesame seed oil
  • 2 teaspoons sugar

Prepare the Mandarin pancakes (see recipe below) while the duck is cooking or the day before.

Making scallion brushes

Making scallion brushes

P1020769

The end result

Make Scallion Brushes by first trimming the dark green end and the tip of the root end so the total length is about 5” or a little less. Cut four intersecting cuts in each end about 1 1/2 inches along the length. Soak in ice water and refrigerate. (The ends curl up!) Wash duck under cold water. Pat dry inside and out with towels. Tie one end of a long stout string around neck skin. Suspend bird in a cool airy place for 3 hours. In a large wok, combine water, honey, ginger, and scallions and bring to a boil. Turn the duck in the liquid to moisten all sides and hang again for about 2 or 3 hours. Make the sauce by combining Hoisin, water, oil and sugar and stirring until sugar dissolves. Cool and reserve. Preheat oven to 375 F. Untie duck and cut off loose neck skin. Place duck breast up on rack and set in pan just large enough to hold bird. Pour 1” water in pan and roast duck for 1 hour. Lower heat to 300, turn duck on its breast, and roast 30 minutes longer. Return to original position and roast a final 30 minutes at 375. Take care while turning not to tear the skin. With a sharp small knife, remove skin. Cut into 2” pieces and place on a platter. Cut meat into fairly small pieces and arrange on a platter. To Serve: Place platters, pancakes, sauce, and scallion brushes on your table. Give each diner a small plate. To eat: Brush sauce on a pancake with a scallion brush, place a bit of skin and meat and the brush on the pancake and roll it up into a package. Heaven!

MANDARIN PANCAKES

  • 1 ¾ cups flour
  • ¾ cup boiling water.
  • Sesame oil

Measure accurately. Mix the flour and water together. Knead 3 minutes (rinse hands in cold water if the mixture is too hot.) Cover the dough with a damp cloth for 30 minutes. With your hands, roll the dough into a long cylinder (12 inches). Cut into 1 inch segments. Flatten each segment with your palms. Brush the tops with a little sesame oil. Put two pieces with their oiled surfaces touching together. Repeat with the other pieces. You will have 6 flattened pieces. On a floured board, roll out very gingerly but firmly, making sure that the edges are together. Place one at a time in a heated dry frying pan over low heat. Turn when air bubbles appear. The pancakes should not brown except for a spot or two. Remove from the heat and separate each into 2 pancakes. Yield: 12 pancakes

ROAST GOOSE 

The secret to perfect roast goose is simply low heat, water, and time. Do not stuff a goose: they are simply too fatty. Remove the giblets and wing tips and reserve for stock. Prick the goose on the breast and thighs and place on a rack in a roasting pan. Insert a meat thermometer in the meaty thigh. Add hot water to the bottom of the pan. Roast at 180 degrees for 5 hours, basting with water occasionally (i.e. every 30-45 minutes). I use a spray bottle. After 5 hours, increase the temperature to 300 and continue to roast until the internal temperature is 190. All told, the goose takes about 6 – 7 hours, depending on the size.

LILLY’S CRANBERRY RELISH

My friend Lilly Rubin often makes goose at Christmastime and serves it with this relish.

  • 1 pound cranberries (annoyingly, most cranberries come in 10 ounce packages!)
  • 2 Cups (or less) sugar
  • Water to barely cover.

Cook cranberries until cooked. Do not overcook. Place in a separate pan:

  • 1 large chopped onion
  • 2 apples, peeled and chopped
  • Blanched orange and lemon peel, 1 each
  • 1/4 to 1/2 C orange juice
  • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Boil these ingredients 5 to 10 minutes until onion loses its sharpness. Now combine the two mixtures and let cool. Add:

  • ½ to 1 cup chopped walnuts

Keeps well refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

********************************************************************

*European guidelines for foie gras production. http://foodfancy.net/docs/out17_en.pdf Understanding Foie Gras an article by Wayne Nish explains in detail the preparation of foie gras with some good illustrations.  http://www.finecooking.com/pdf/051006037.pdf

** J. Kenji López-Alt’s article on the ethics of foie gras production http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/12/the-physiology-of-foie-why-foie-gras-is-not-u.html

*** Menu from the Operakällaren restaurant in Stockholm:

Menu Caneton

Confit de cuisse de canard et foie gras de canard poêle

Stekt confit av anklår och halstrad anklever

serveras med sallad av säsongens grönsaker och äppelvinagrette

CONFIT OF DUCK AND SEARED FOIE GRAS

WITH SALLAD AND APPLE VINAIGRETTE

Canard a la presse, sauce madère

Anka från pressen: Knaperstekt bröst, sky på Pressad anka och madeira,

rostad spetskål och karamelliserad lök

DUCK FROM THE PRESS: CRISP FRIED BREAST, SAUCE OF PRESSED DUCK AND MADEIRA

Glace tiramisu, truffe au café et prunes flambées

Tiramisuglass med kaffetryffel och flamberade plommon

TIRAMISU ICE CREAM WITH COFFEE TRUFFLE AND FLAMBÉED PLUMS

925,-

Minimum 2 pers

Vendu en nombre pair

Endast till jämna antal .

ONLY EVEN NUMBERS

Sveriges Nationalkrog

Bon Appétit

Stefano Catenacci, Hovtraktöret son chef de cuisine Viktor Lejon

MENU FROM THE RESTAURANT LEBNIZ-KLAUSE IN BERLIN

Leibniz Klause menu 001

 No

11 comments on “Love a Duck

  1. These recipes look fantastic! If I didn’t have such a tiny Parisian apartment (ie- if I had a real oven) I’d be trying these for the holidays. Yum!!

  2. Sara Smith says:

    So timely and such wonderful looking recipes!
    I recently had a wonderful adventure cooking peking duck from a local farm–300F the whole time, turning once an hour for a total of 4 hours. I think I ate about a third a duck’s worth of crispy skin in the kitchen at midnight :). The meat was so beautifully moist and, duck up on a rack, I collect a whooping 2.5 pints of gorgeous duck fat (I did a fat collection at every turning).

    Another local farm has geese for sale–how does the taste of goose compare to duck?

    Thanks for another enjoyable post!

  3. Jessica Norris says:

    Mary, I think one of the only times I have ever eaten duck was with you in Paris, at the unforgettable lunch when I learned that it’s okay to dilute red wine! That trick carried me through three pregnancies. I have less to say about ducks, though, lazy cook that I am…

  4. Mary, what an amazing collection of duck and goose recipes! And thank you especially for explaining the terms magret, maigret, and moulard, which had long confused me.

  5. Linda, I’m so glad you enjoyed this!

  6. Henrietta says:

    This website was… how do I say it? Relevant!! Finally I have found something that helped
    me. Thanks a lot!

  7. weight loss says:

    Great articles you post here, i have shared
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  8. Thank you very much! Glad you enjoy them.

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